Combed 30s, 24s, or 20s? How to Choose the Right One for Your Production

Almost every new buyer who walks into a fabric supplier asks the same thing:

"I want good combed fabric."

And the question that always comes back from the supplier's side is: good for what?

For premium blank t-shirts selling above $10 a piece? For 500-piece event uniforms on a tight budget? For children's clothing that needs to survive dozens of washes? Each scenario has a different answer — and the answer isn't always "pick the most expensive one."

The numbers 20s, 24s, and 30s aren't a quality ranking from worst to best. They're yarn count codes that determine the character of the fabric — and different characters suit different contexts.

What Do the Numbers 20s, 24s, 30s Actually Mean?

These numbers are called ne count — a measure of yarn fineness used in the knitting process.

The rule is straightforward: the higher the number, the finer the yarn, the lighter and softer the fabric. The lower the number, the thicker the yarn, the heavier the fabric.

So: 20s = thickest yarn, heaviest fabric. 30s = finest yarn, lightest and softest fabric. 24s sits in the middle.

This is what determines how the fabric feels against skin, how much a finished garment weighs, how it drapes in photos, and how well it suits the type of product you're making.

Combed 20s — Character and Who It's Right For

Combed 20s uses the thickest yarn of the three. The result: a heavy, dense, warm fabric. The texture is slightly coarser than 30s, but still comfortable to wear.

Its advantage is durability — heavier fabric generally holds up better against friction and repeated use.

Combed 20s is best suited for:

• Workwear and field uniforms

• Outdoor or physically active use

• Large-scale production runs where budget efficiency matters

• Products where function matters more than premium aesthetics

On price, combed 20s is typically the most affordable of the three — thicker yarn requires less yarn length per meter of fabric.

Its limitation: in a tropical climate, heavy fabric can feel uncomfortable for everyday wear. And if your target market is premium or fashion-conscious buyers, combed 20s may not deliver the impression you're going for.

Combed 24s — Character and Who It's Right For

Combed 24s is the middle ground — and in many situations, the middle ground is the most versatile choice.

Its character: not too thick, not too thin. Light enough for everyday wear in a tropical climate, substantial enough to feel present in a customer's hands.

Combed 24s is best suited for:

• Garment manufacturers handling diverse order types across multiple segments

• Mid-range streetwear and merchandise

• Community, organization, or event uniforms

• First orders where you're still figuring out what your market responds to

This is a "safe" choice in the best sense — it performs well across many contexts without significant compromise on any side.

Its limitation: if you're building a brand with a very premium positioning, 24s may not be enough to support the price point you want to hold. If you're working within a very tight budget, 20s might be more cost-efficient.

Combed 30s — Character and Who It's Right For

Combed 30s is what most people are referring to when they talk about "premium" t-shirt fabric — and there's a reason for that.

Finer yarn produces fabric that's softer against skin, lighter to wear, and has better drape. When worn, the fabric falls more naturally. When photographed, it reads as more premium than heavier alternatives.

Combed 30s is best suited for:

• Local clothing brands selling at mid-to-upper price points

• Everyday casual wear that prioritizes comfort and aesthetics

• Products sold heavily through photography — online stores, marketplaces, social media

• Collections where the price point gives room for a higher material cost

On price, combed 30s is typically the highest of the three.

Its limitation: because it's thinner, combed 30s is more prone to sheerness if the GSM isn't chosen carefully. For heavy plastisol screen printing applications, lighter fabric can also be less than ideal — thick ink can affect how the fabric drapes.

Quick Reference: Choose Based on Context

If you're still uncertain after reading the above, use this guide:

Production context	Right choice
Workwear / field uniforms / outdoor	Combed 20s
Event t-shirts or budget merchandise	Combed 20s or 24s
General-purpose garment manufacturing	Combed 24s
Mid-range streetwear, community uniforms	Combed 24s
Fashion brand, mid-to-upper retail pricing	Combed 30s
Everyday casual wear, photo/video content	Combed 30s
First order, still testing the market	Start with 24s

One principle worth holding: choose fabric that makes sense for the margin at your target retail price. If you're selling t-shirts under $5 per piece, combed 30s will likely eat into your margin. If you're selling above $10, combed 20s may make your product feel undervalued.

One Variable That Often Gets Overlooked: GSM

Choosing yarn count alone isn't enough. Combed 30s, for example, isn't a single specification — it comes in a range of GSM weights that produce very different results.

For combed 30s:

• 140–150 GSM — thin and light, very breathable, ideal for everyday casual wear or hot climates. More prone to sheerness in lighter colors.

• 150–160 GSM — medium weight, slightly more substantial while staying light, better drape, safer across a wider range of colors including lighter shades.

This means two garments both described as "combed 30s" can feel very different depending on GSM. Make sure your conversation with your supplier covers both variables — yarn count and GSM — before you commit to an order.

The Bottom Line

There's no objectively best option among combed 20s, 24s, and 30s. There's only the most appropriate one for your specific production context.

Choosing the wrong one isn't just about how the fabric feels. It's about margins that don't work, brand positioning that feels inconsistent, and customer expectations that don't get met — or get met beyond what they paid for.

Three questions that can help you decide:

1. What's your target retail price per piece?

2. Who will be wearing this, and in what context?

3. Does your product prioritize function, everyday comfort, or premium aesthetics?

The answers to those three questions almost always point to a clear choice.

Still unsure which is right for your production? Tell us about your product and target market — the IJT team will help you find the most sensible option before you order.

Contact our 24hr CS at WA 0812 9090 2360 or contact our store admin at office hours (Monday–Friday 09.00–17.00 and Saturday 09.00–17.00, Sunday off) at WA 0812 1234 2360

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